Life Goal: Learn to Surf
I have now made 2 attempts to surf, both of which included me mastering body boarding on the surfboard but not actually standing up. The first attempt was with Jason while I was still living in San Diego. He and I headed out to Tourmaline Beach. The surf wasn’t great, so like most of the other surfers, we spent most of our time just sitting and hanging out on the water. This, I am VERY good at. And since I haven’t mastered surfing yet, this is my favorite part. Eventually Jason and I decided to head back in to BBQ. At that same time, I caught the biggest wave of the day. I didn’t stand up, but I held on tight and made it all the way to the beach, which made getting out a lot easier.
My second attempt to surf was in Virginia Beach in July with Ryan. We signed up for lessons, but it ended up being a pretty rough break when we got there. I got my butt handed to me each time I tried to make it out past the break. I caught a few good ones and was able to get onto my knees, but I was unable to stand up for any of them. After a while, I was complete exhausted from battling the waves to get out far enough that I sat on the beach and watched Ryan successfully learn to surf.
I will try again, most likely in Australia. Until then….